Battery & Fuses (2017 Ford Escape)

This is the page I wish every owner had bookmarked. Batteries usually fail on the least convenient morning, and fuses guard pretty much everything from the power points to the blower motor. Below is a clear, no-jargon guide for testing your battery, understanding alternator numbers, jump-starting safely, doing a quick parasitic draw check, and finding the fuse boxes in the 2017 Escape. I also included a shopping section so you can grab the right parts and tools in one go.

Battery basics (what matters)

• Group size & terminals: The physical size and post layout. Match what your Escape uses so the hold-down and cables line up correctly.
• CCA (Cold Cranking Amps): Higher CCA helps in cold climates. Choose at or above the OE rating.
• Type: Flooded (conventional) vs AGM. AGM handles vibrations better and tolerates deep cycles, but costs more. Many owners simply match what’s in the car.
• Age matters: Batteries commonly last 3–5 years. If yours is older, test it before winter or a road trip.

Quick voltage cheat sheet

• Engine off (rested): ~12.6 V ≈ fully charged; ~12.2 V ≈ ~50% charge; ~12.0 V or lower = weak/needs charge.
• Engine running: Alternator should hold roughly ~13.8–14.7 V. Much lower may indicate charging issues; much higher can mean overcharging.

Note: Surface charge right after shutting off can read ~12.8–13.0 V; let the car sit a few minutes (doors closed) and recheck.

How to test the battery (2-minute driveway check)

1. Visual: Look for corrosion on terminals (white/green crust), cracked case, loose hold-down. Clean and secure before anything else.
2. Open-circuit voltage: With engine off and accessories off, measure across the posts with a digital multimeter. ~12.6 V is healthy; ~12.2 V means charge it; below ~12.0 V suggests a failing battery or deep discharge.
3. Cranking test: Watch the meter while starting: a brief dip to ~10 V is typical. If it plunges well below that, suspect a weak battery or bad connections.
4. Charging test: With engine idling, lights and rear defrost on, you should still see ~13.8–14.7 V. If it’s in the 12s, the alternator or belt/connection may be at fault.

Jump-starting safely (owner version)

1. Park close, not touching. Both cars in Park, ignitions off, accessories off.
2. Clamp order (standard):
   1. Red (+) to the dead battery positive post.
   2. Red (+) to the donor car positive post.
   3. Black (–) to the donor car negative post.
   4. Black (–) to a clean engine/chassis ground on the dead car away from the battery (not the negative post).
3. Start donor, then start Escape. Let it idle a few minutes if the Escape was deeply discharged.
4. Remove cables in reverse order. Don’t let clamps touch.
5. Drive 20–30 minutes to recharge, but if the battery is old it may not hold, make sure to test or replace soon.

Safety: Wear eye protection. If cables or clamps are hot or smoking, stop immediately. Check polarity and connections.

Replacing the battery (tips & gotchas)

1. Memory saver? Optional. Most settings survive fine, but radios/clocks may need a reset. Some owners plug a small memory-saver into the OBD-II or power port to retain presets.
2. Disconnect order: Negative (–) first, then positive (+). Reverse to install: positive first, then negative.
3. Clean terminals: Use a terminal brush and a little baking-soda water for corrosion (avoid getting liquid into the battery). Dry thoroughly.
4. Secure it: The hold-down keeps vibration down and prevents cable stress. Don’t skip it.
5. Coat lightly: A very thin film of dielectric/terminal protectant on the outside of the clamps helps prevent future corrosion (not between the metal contact surfaces).

Parasitic draw (when the battery dies overnight)

If your new battery keeps dying, you may have a parasitic draw, which means something is staying awake when the car is off.

1. Charge the battery fully first.
2. With engine off and doors closed, place a multimeter in series with the negative cable (ammeter mode). Let modules “sleep” for 20–40 minutes.
3. Typical sleep draw is often under ~50 mA for many modern cars. If you’re seeing significantly more, pull fuses one at a time to find the circuit that drops the draw.
4. Once you isolate the circuit, inspect components there (lights staying on, sticking relays, modules not sleeping, aftermarket accessories).

Tip: If you open a door while testing, the draw will spike. Use the door latch trick (close the latch with a screwdriver) so the BCM thinks the door is shut.

Alternator & connections

• Belt condition/tension: A slipping belt can masquerade as alternator failure.
• Main grounds & battery cables: Check for looseness, corrosion under insulation, or broken strands which cause poor connections cause low charging voltage.
• Voltage sanity: If you consistently see below ~13.5 V at idle with loads on (lights, blower, rear defrost), investigate the alternator and wiring.

Fuse boxes (locations & notes)

Fuse numbering and exact assignments vary by build and region, and I've seen these differ on Canadian and USA models. Always use the chart on the fuse-box lid and your owner’s manual for the definitive map. When a fuse blows instantly, you most likely have a short to ground. Always inspect wiring and components on that circuit rather than upsizing the fuse.

Common convenience fuses to know

• 12V power points: If your phone charger or dash cam dies, check the power point/“cigar lighter” fuse first.
• Blower motor / HVAC: No fan? Check the blower fuse and the blower resistor/connector for heat damage.
• Infotainment: A no-boot screen can be a blown fuse, confirm before chasing software gremlins.

Quick FAQ