2017 Ford Escape Common Problems and Issues

Here’s a practical list of 2017 Ford Escape problems and issues that owners run into from time to time, written in owner-speak. Whether you are having problems with your 2017 Ford Escape S, SE or Titanium, this article covers all the trim models.

For each one, I note the typical symptoms, quick DIY checks, and whether it’s a simple driveway fix or a “call a pro” which I won't do until I have no other option. I keep this page updated from real-world experience with our Escape (nicknamed Alice) and shared owner patterns. Always confirm details in your manual and service info for your exact engine (2.5L, 1.5L EcoBoost, 2.0L EcoBoost) and FWD/AWD setup.

Before you start: quick tools that save time

• OBD-II scanner to read/clear codes (live data helps aim the diagnosis).
• Good flashlight and a small inspection mirror for tight spots.
• Digital multimeter for battery/charging checks and continuity.
• Hand vacuum pump or smoke tester for vacuum/evap leaks (optional but handy).

1) Misfires, rough idle, or hesitation

Where you’ll feel it: shaky idle, stumble on tip-in, flashing MIL under hard load, or codes like P0300–P0304.

• Check first: Spark plugs age (especially on EcoBoost), coil boots cracked, coil connectors loose, dirty engine air filter.
• DIY moves: Inspect plugs/boots; swap coils between cylinders to see if the misfire “moves.” Verify plug gap/part number and torque. Look for vacuum leaks (listen for hiss, watch STFT/LTFT on a scanner).
• When to see a pro: Recurrent misfire under boost after new plugs/coils, signs of injector trouble, or compression anomalies.

2) Coolant loss / sweet smell under hood

Symptoms: low coolant in the reservoir, faint sweet smell after a drive, heater performance changes, or visible pink/orange crust near hose joints.

• Check first: Reservoir cap seal, hose clamps, thermostat housing area, water pump weep holes, and heater hose quick-connects. On EcoBoost engines, also inspect turbo-hose junctions for residue.
• DIY moves: Pressure-test a cold system with a hand pump. Look for dried tracks. Replace suspect clamps/hoses and torque to spec. Top off with the correct coolant only and don’t mix chemistries.
• When to see a pro: Coolant in oil (milky), persistent unexplained loss, or leaks near the turbo center housing/buried joints you can’t safely access.

3) Battery keeps dying / random electrical gremlins

Symptoms: slow crank, repeated dead battery in the morning, or odd module behavior.

• Check first: Battery age/CCA, alternator charging voltage (~13.8–14.7 V running), grounds and terminal cleanliness, and glovebox/bulb/USB accessories that stay powered.
• DIY moves: Parasitic draw test with an ammeter in series on the negative cable; let the car “sleep” and pull fuses to isolate a high-draw circuit. Fix the offending device or connector.
• When to see a pro: Alternator undercharging/overcharging, intermittent short you can’t isolate, or CAN bus faults.

4) Brakes: squeal, pulsation, or one wheel dusting more

Symptoms: squeal at light stops, steering-wheel shake when braking from speed, or uneven dust.

• Check first: Pad thickness, rotor surfaces, slider pin freedom, abutment clips, and wheel lug torque. Rusty hub faces can cause rotor runout if not cleaned.
• DIY moves: Refresh pads/rotors with quality hardware, clean and lightly lube contact points (not friction surfaces), torque everything to spec, and bed the brakes properly.
• When to see a pro: Persistent pulsation after correct install, sticking caliper piston, fluid leaks, or ABS faults.

5) HVAC weak airflow or stubborn fogging

Symptoms: fan sounds strong but little air, slow defog, or musty smell.

• Check first: Cabin filter (often overlooked), cowl intake packed with leaves, and blower resistor/connector heat damage.
• DIY moves: Replace the cabin filter (carbon type helps odors), vacuum the cowl, inspect the blower plug. Clean interior glass with a proper glass cleaner to reduce fogging.
• When to see a pro: Blend door actuator clicking or A/C performance issues (refrigerant pressures need proper equipment).

6) Turbo whistle, whoosh, or low power (EcoBoost)

Symptoms: new whistling, surge/hesitation, or low boost feeling.

• Check first: Charge air (intercooler) hoses and clamps for splits/oil mist, loose intake clamps, and vacuum lines to boost control.
• DIY moves: Tighten/replace suspect clamps, smoke-test for leaks, verify the air filter is seated. Clear codes and test drive.
• When to see a pro: Metal-on-metal turbo noise, shaft play, or persistent underboost codes after fixing leaks.

7) AWD noises, binding, or shudder (AWD models)

Symptoms: moan or chatter on tight turns, vibration under load, or fluid seep at the PTU/RDU.

• Check first: Tire tread depth/pressures match (AWD hates mismatched rolling diameters), look for leaks at the PTU (front) and RDU (rear).
• DIY moves: Correct tire pressures and rotate matching sets together. Inspect and service fluids per service info if accessible.
• When to see a pro: Noises continue with matched tires and fresh fluid, or visible mechanical play/leaks at units.

8) Throttle body / idle oddities

Symptoms: unstable idle, sudden low idle, or throttle-related codes.

• Check first: Carbon around the throttle plate, dirty MAF (if equipped), vacuum leaks.
• DIY moves: Clean throttle body carefully (use proper cleaner; light film only), verify air filter and intake tube seals, clear codes, and perform an idle relearn if needed.
• When to see a pro: Recurrent electronic throttle faults or limp mode after basic cleaning and leak checks.

Recalls vs. TSBs (what’s the difference?)

• Recalls: Safety/compliance issues fixed by the dealer at no charge. Check your VIN on official recall sites.
• TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins): Known patterns and recommended fixes for specific complaints. Not always free, but hugely helpful to point diagnosis.

I keep a dedicated Recalls page with tips on confirming VIN-specific campaigns.

Products to buy (handy for the issues above)

Always verify fitment/specs for your exact trim, engine, and region.

Scanning & electrical

• OBD-II Bluetooth Scanner (live data + codes). Shop scanners
• Digital Multimeter (auto-ranging). Shop DMMs

Ignition & air

• Motorcraft/NGK/Denso Iridium Spark Plugs (match engine part #). Shop plugs
• Ignition Coils / Boot Kits (by VIN). Shop coils
• Engine Air Filter (quality OE-style). Shop filters

Cooling system

• Cooling System Pressure Tester (hand pump). Shop testers
• OEM-Spec Coolant (correct chemistry/colour for your Escape). Shop coolant
• Hose Clamp Plier Set (for spring clamps). Shop pliers

Vacuum & boost leaks (EcoBoost)

• Boost/Vacuum Smoke Tester (DIY). Shop
• Silicone Hose Kit / Quality Clamps (match sizes you measure). Shop clamps

Brake refresh

• Ceramic Pad & Rotor Kits (front/rear by wheel size). Shop kits
• Synthetic Brake Grease + Hardware Kits. Grease · Hardware

When to call a pro

• Warning lights with reduced power (“limp mode”), or codes that return immediately after basic checks.
• Fuel leaks, brake fluid leaks, timing/chain noises, or overheating you can’t quickly pinpoint.
• Electrical faults involving airbags/ABS where proper tools and procedures matter for safety.