Spark Plugs (2017 Ford Escape)

Here’s my plain-English spark plug guide for fellow 2017 Ford Escape owners. Between road trips and errands, Alice (our 2017 Ford Escape SE, 1.5L EcoBoost) eventually needed fresh plugs and turbo engines especially like them on time. Below you’ll find friendly intervals, symptoms, a step-by-step DIY overview that works for the 2.5L, 1.5L EcoBoost, and 2.0L EcoBoost, plus the usual “what to buy” section so you can grab parts and tools quickly.

When to replace

• EcoBoost (1.5L / 2.0L): Many owners replace plugs around typical manufacturer intervals (and sometimes a bit earlier if lots of city/short-trip driving). Turbos are pickier and fresh plugs help idle, mileage, and cold starts.
• 2.5L (non-turbo): Often longer-lived than turbo plugs, but age, mileage, and fuel quality still matter. If idle feels rough or MPG dips, inspect sooner.

Important: Always follow your owner’s manual and current service info for the official interval for your exact engine and region.

Symptoms your plugs are tired

• Rough idle / stumble (especially cold), or a light vibration at a stop
• Sluggish throttle and reduced fuel economy
• Misfire codes like P0300 (random) or P0301–P0304 (cylinder-specific)
• Hard starts or hesitation under load

Quick orientation by engine

DIY overview (works for all three engines)

1. Tools & prep: Spark plug socket (with rubber insert or magnet), 3/8″ ratchet, extensions, small torque wrench, dielectric grease (tiny amount for boots), compressed air or a clean brush, and a catch tray for bolts. Cool engine only.
2. Access the coils: Remove engine cover if equipped. Unplug each coil electrical connector (lift the tab gently), then remove the coil hold-down bolts. Twist and pull coils up. If a boot sticks, twist first and don’t yank the wiring.
3. Clean before removal: Blow out debris from each well so dirt can’t fall into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
4. Remove plugs: Use the spark plug socket and extension. Break loose smoothly; if a plug feels stubborn, work it gently and do not force.
5. Check new plugs: Verify part number, factory gap spec, and condition. Many iridium plugs come pre-gapped; adjust only if the maker allows. Avoid prying on the fine-wire tip.
6. Install: Start each plug by hand to avoid cross-threading. Thread all the way down with fingers via the extension/socket, then torque to the service spec for your engine. (Follow your manual/service info for torque strength, as over- or under-torque can damage threads or cause misfires.)
7. Coils & boots: Inspect boots for carbon tracking (thin lightning-like lines). A very light smear of dielectric grease inside the boot lip can help sealing (not on the metal contact). Reinstall coils and torque their bolts per spec.
8. Reconnect & test: Plug in coil connectors until they click. Start the engine and listen for a smooth idle. Clear any stored misfire codes after a short drive.

Misfire troubleshooting (P030X)

• Swap test: Move the suspect coil to another cylinder. If the misfire code follows the coil (e.g., P0302 → P0304), the coil is likely weak.
• Boots & moisture: Oil or coolant in the plug well? Fix the leak first. Replace boots if they’re cracked or carbon-tracked.
• Gap & heat range: Wrong gap or non-OE heat range can cause misses under load. Use OE-equivalent plugs and verify the gap spec.
• Fuel & air: A dirty air filter or weak injector can also mimic plug issues. Rule out basics before chasing ghosts.

What should I buy? (examples)

Always verify fitment by engine (2.5L, 1.5L EcoBoost, 2.0L EcoBoost), VIN, and region.

OE-equivalent spark plugs (iridium)

• Motorcraft iridium (OE) — my first choice for stock engines. Shop Motorcraft
• NGK / Denso iridium — quality alternatives; match the exact part number for your engine. Shop NGK · Shop Denso

Ignition coils & boots

• Coil-on-plug replacements — buy by VIN to avoid mix-ups. Shop coils
• Boot kits (if your coils are fine but boots are worn). Shop boots

Tools that make it painless

• Spark plug socket (magnetic or rubber insert) — 5/8″ is common; check yours. Shop
• Extensions + wobble adapter — helpful in tight bays. Shop
• Torque wrench (small-range 3/8″) — for accurate plug torque. Shop
• Compressed air / hand blower — clean wells before removal. Shop
• Dielectric grease (tiny amount) — seals boots; not on threads/electrodes. Shop

Do I need anti-seize?

Most modern iridium plugs come with a special coating on the threads. Many plug manufacturers explicitly say do not use anti-seize because it alters torque values and can lead to over-tightening. If your plug maker/service info says it’s already coated, install dry and torque correctly. If anti-seize is specified for your combination, apply the thinnest possible film only on threads. Never on electrodes.

After the job: test & log

• Start and let the engine settle; idle should be smooth within a minute.
• Take a short drive, then do a gentle highway pull and if there's no stumbles, you’re golden.
• Clear old misfire codes if present and log the date/odometer so you know when the next set is due.

Friendly reminder: Use OE-equivalent plugs with the correct heat range and gap for your engine, torque to spec, and don’t force anything. A calm 45-minute plug job beats a rushed 15-minute one every time.